Moon Oregon

DISCOVER
Oregon

Planning Your Trip

IF YOU HAVE . . .

The Best of Oregon

BEST BIKE RIDES

The Wine Route

TOURING THE TAPS

OREGON FOR THE BIRDS

Central Oregon Tour

AS SEEN IN PORTLANDIA

The Oregon Outback

TOP TENTS AND TRAILS

KEEPING THE DRY SIDE UP

Truly epic in its breadth, Oregon’s landscape is diverse and dramatic. A broad deep-green swath, lush with farmland and studded with old-growth Douglas firs, runs between the rugged Pacific coast and the volcanic peaks of the Cascades. Farther east, you’ll find high desert, alpine mountains, and deep river canyons—spectacular country that’s largely unexplored by visitors.

But Oregon is much more than a scenic abstraction. In few places has human civilization meshed so agreeably with the natural environment. What helps make Oregon unique is the attitude of its citizens, who are fiercely proud of their state, its culture, and its open spaces. Equal to the great outdoors, the arts are cherished and draw crowds by multitudes. The state also celebrates its historical heritage, ethnic makeup, and straightforward high spirits with a thousand festivals. And the food? Much of Oregon is a huge garden where vegetables, fruit, wine grapes, and farm and ranch products reach perfection. Mighty rivers and 360 miles of Pacific coast provide shellfish, salmon, tuna, and halibut.

Whether it’s “three days and four plays” at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland, shopping for wild morel mushrooms at the Sisters farmers market, dueling pinot noir tastings in Carlton, or kiteboarding near Hood River, you’ll find that Oregonians engage with everyday life with a verve that’s at once intensely local yet tied to a larger, more universal perspective. In Portland, where “organic” and “local” are assumptions, not exceptions, life is rich with the culture and cuisine options of a cosmopolitan center, yet as comfortable and cozy as in a small town.

Oregonians tell a fable about a crossroads on the old Oregon Trail. Pointing south toward the California goldfields was a sign with a drawing of a bag of gold. Pointing north was another sign with the words “To Oregon.” The punch line? Only those pioneers who could read continued to Oregon.

Of course, the Oregon Trail is history now, but that doesn’t mean that the movement to Oregon is over. The same vaguely agrarian and utopian ideals that drew the pioneers still work magic on a new crop of immigrants eager to move to the Beaver State to open a restaurant, start a software company, or simply seek the good life and a pint of micro-brewed beer.

Portland

Graced by the presence of the Columbia and Willamette Rivers and nearby Mount Hood, Portland is the state’s green urban core. Just north of downtown, find the vibrant Pearl District. To the west, Washington Park is home to rose gardens; trails here connect to Forest Park, the nation’s largest urban forested park. Cross the Willamette River to the east side to explore its thriving neighborhoods.

Columbia River Gorge and Mount Hood

This is the Pacific Northwest’s primal landscape: towering waterfalls, moss-draped rainforests, snowcapped volcanoes—all in a chasm 5 miles wide, 80 miles long, and 3,000 feet deep. The Historic Columbia River Highway ushers travelers to hiking trails. Hood River has a lovely setting at the foot of Mount Hood; drive up the mountain to the landmark Timberline Lodge to more hiking trails and nearly year-round skiing.

The Willamette Valley

The historic end of the Oregon Trail, the Willamette Valley is still agriculturally rich, with the emphasis now on wine grapes. Nearly the entire west side of the valley is a wine lover’s pilgrimage route. Cycling the wine country adds an active dimension to such a tour. Hike past some of the state’s prettiest waterfalls at Silver Falls State Park.

North Coast

Sandy beaches along the northern coastline are separated by headlands, most traced by a hiking trail. Lots of beach towns, ranging from quirky spots that are lost in time to sophisticated resort communities, mean that everyone can find a place to adopt as their own. Vibrant Astoria has a rich history; Cannon Beach is a favorite Portlanders’ getaway; and the Three Capes Scenic Loop west of Tillamook provides access to spectacular beaches, including the one at Cape Kiwanda.

Central Coast

The central coast is anchored at its northern end by sprawling Lincoln City and exemplified by Newport, with charming neighborhoods, an active fishing port, and the Oregon Coast Aquarium. At the southern end of the region, Florence and Reedsport are great bases for visits to the Oregon Dunes, which form an otherworldly sand-scape dotted with lakes and bisected by broad estuaries.

South Coast

The south coast feels far from everything, a landscape of mountains, dense forest, wild rivers, and beaches punctuated with dramatic rock formations. West of Coos Bay are wild and beautiful natural areas. Bandon is cozy and full of tourists, many there for the world-class golf courses at Bandon Dunes. The southernmost part of Oregon’s coastline may be its most scenic, especially the stretch between Gold Beach and Brookings.

Southern Oregon

Southern Oregon is a land of opposites, ranging from the arts town of Ashland, known for its Shakespeare Festival, to some of the state’s most secluded backcountry. The valleys of the North Umpqua and Rogue Rivers are both attractive to hikers and anglers; the Rogue is a top-notch white-water river. Crater Lake is a mesmerizing highlight in Southern Oregon.

Central Oregon

The high desert of central Oregon is cut through by the Deschutes and Crooked Rivers and dotted with volcanic peaks. In Bend, visitors can find good food and a comfortable place to spend the night as well as skiing at nearby Mount Bachelor and easy access to hiking and mountain biking. Raft trips vary from tame floats to the rip-roaring rapids outside Maupin. Visit the Warm Springs Indian Reservation to get a sense of Native American history and culture.

Northeastern Oregon

You’ll hear echoes of the Old West in northeastern Oregon, whether you’re touring Chief Joseph’s homeland, tracing the steps of Oregon Trail pioneers, or cheering rodeo athletes at the Pendleton Round-Up. Go even further into the past at the John Day Fossil Beds, or explore the geology of Hells Canyon with a boat ride down the Snake River.

Southeastern Oregon

This high-desert region boasts deep blue skies, geologic marvels, and plenty of elbow room. Soak in natural hot springs, view migrating birds at the vast Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, and get to know your fellow travelers at the Frenchglen Hotel. A visit to this corner of Oregon will reconnect you with nature and give you plenty of time and space for reflection.

WHEN TO GO

Although summer weather is usually beautiful, June can be cloudy and cool in the Willamette Valley. When the Willamette Valley heats up, the coast usually remains cool, with morning fog. Trails in the Cascades are often snowy until mid-July—find early summer hikes in the Columbia Gorge or along the Rogue River Trail.

Spring is ideal for touring southeastern Oregon, unless you want to make it all the way to the top of Steens Mountain, which is usually closed by snow until early July.

Autumn’s first rains appear in September, but October’s weather often starts off clear and beautiful. Even after the rains start, remember that cloudy days with scattered rain are the norm, and that “sun breaks” are common.

Although the mountainous parts of the state accumulate huge amounts of snow during the winter, snowfall is rare on the coast and in the western valleys. Wintertime temperatures are usually above freezing, though the dampness can make it seem colder.

The Best of Oregon

It’s almost impossible to cover all of Oregon in a week, so we’ve crafted a 10-day tour that hits most of the highlights. Although we think it would be a great trip, don’t take this itinerary too seriously—and don’t hesitate to stay longer at one site or discover your own favorite places along this route. With a mere 10 days to explore the entire state in this itinerary, we couldn’t quite get you into the heart of eastern Oregon, but that doesn’t mean we don’t highly recommend this part of the state. In fact, we like it so much we’ve devoted an entirely different itinerary to it.

Day 1

Fly into Portland International Airport and either pick up a rental car or take the MAX light rail train into town and arrange to get a rental car in downtown Portland. Spend the afternoon strolling around downtown, visiting Powell’s Books and the Pearl District. Spend the night at the Heathman Hotel and dine nearby at old fave Higgins Restaurant & Bar or a slightly longer walk away at trendy Little Bird Bistro.

Day 2

Head northwest out of Portland on U.S. 30 to Astoria. Explore this historic town at the mouth of the Columbia River, including a visit to the replica of Fort Clatsop, which served as Lewis and Clark’s winter home in 1805-1806. Then continue south and spend the night in Cannon Beach at the Stephanie Inn.

Day 3

Head south out of town on U.S. 101 and stop for a walk at Oswald West State Park, where you can follow a short trail through an old-growth forest to Short Sands Beach to watch the surfers. Then drive down the coast as far as Yachats and spend the night at Overleaf Lodge. Eat dinner and catch some live music at the Drift Inn Pub.

Day 4

Spend the morning exploring the tidepools and old-growth forest around Cape Perpetua. Take a tour of Sea Lion Caves (or just peer down from the road with your binoculars). From the seaside town of Florence, cut east on Route 126 to Eugene, with a detour south to Lorane for a visit to the King Estate Winery tasting room. Spend the night near Eugene’s riverside trails at the elegant Inn at the 5th.

Day 5

Drive south along I-5 to Ashland to attend a world-class play. Dine at New Sammy’s Cowboy Diner (reserve well in advance) or Amuse, and spend the night at the Ashland Springs Hotel.

Day 6

From Medford, just north of Ashland, drive up the Rogue River on Route 62 through the tiny towns of Prospect and Union Creek to Crater Lake National Park, where you’ll spend the night at the Crater Lake Lodge.

Day 7

Head north on U.S. 97 to Bend, visiting the Lava Lands Visitor Center and High Desert Museum on the way. Stay downtown at the Oxford Hotel or a few miles out of town along the Deschutes River at the Mount Bachelor Resort.

Day 8

Continue north to Maupin to meet your raft guide for a daylong float down the Deschutes. At the end of the day, drive up Mount Hood and spend the night at Timberline Lodge.

Day 9

Hike along the Timberline Trail (or spend the morning skiing—even in August) and then drive to Hood River. Take a hike to Upper Horsetail Falls and then continue west to Troutdale, where you’ll spend your final night at McMenamins Edgefield, once the county poor farm.

Day 10

It doesn’t take long—about 20 minutes—to get from Edgefield to the Portland airport. If you have a late flight, spend the day in Portland, visiting Washington and Forest Parks.

The Wine Route

Oregon wines have been in the news ever since the 1980s when a Willamette Valley pinot noir came in second in a blind tasting in France—defeating a field of more expensive and highly esteemed French burgundies. Today, there are over 400 wineries in the state, producing more than 1.7 million cases per year and contributing about $2.7 billion to the state’s economy.

Wine grape production now takes place across the state, even in the dry rangelands of eastern Oregon. Planning a trip through Oregon’s many wine regions is a good way to explore the state and to track down little-known vintages that don’t make it across state lines.

Southern Oregon

Start your wine odyssey in Ashland, where Shakespeare and fine restaurants make good companions for wine exploration. Near town are Ashland Vineyards, famous for the white wine Shakespeare’s Love, and Weisinger’s Vineyard, which produces fine viognier and cabernet sauvignon. The area’s best wines, and the greatest concentration of wineries, are over the ridge in the Applegate Valley. High summer heat here enables the production of red wines such as cabernet and syrah as well as some California-style chardonnays; check out the wines at Valley View Winery or Troon Vineyard. Spend the night at the Ashland Creek Inn, a luxury inn right on the water, and dine at Peerless Restaurant, known for its wine cellar and dedication to regional foods.

Travel north toward Roseburg, central for the wines of the Umpqua Valley. Abacela is noted for the many varieties of wine grapes it grows, offering unusual-for-Oregon varietals such as tempranillo, dolcetto, and sangiovese. Henry Estate Winery is one of the state’s oldest and has lovely gardens that make an excellent picnic destination. The wines range from full-bodied pinot noir and merlot to refreshing Riesling. Girardet produces a range of wines, such as chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir, and also makes wine from more unusual grapes such as baco noir. The historic, riverside Steamboat Inn, 38 miles up the North Umpqua River, is the region’s best dining and lodging choice.

The Willamette Valley

The Willamette Valley is Oregon’s primary wine-growing region. Here the weather is cooler in than the Umpqua and Applegate Valleys, favoring the production of pinot noir and chardonnay, the grapes of France’s Burgundy valley, and pinot gris from northern Italy and the French Alsace region. Near Eugene, be sure to stop at King Estate Winery, with a hilltop tasting and winemaking facility near Lorane that is literally palatial. Territorial Vineyards & Wine Company