Moon North Carolina Coast

DISCOVER North Carolina Coast

5 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

The Best of the North Carolina Coast

EAT SEAFOOD LIKE A LOCAL

Outdoor Adventure

Best Beaches

MAKE A SPLASH!

I was a few steps behind my dad as he carried my 3-year-old nephew past the fig trees and the dune grass at Wrightsville Beach and paused at the crest of the walkway. My nephew, Silas, turned in his grandfather’s arms, his eyes the widest I’d ever seen, his mouth open in a silent “O.”

He turned back to the expanse of sand and surf and said one word:

“Whoa.”

Then, “Whoaa. Whoaaaa.”

He looked back at me and squealed.

My nephew had just seen the beach for the first time and in trying to process a horizon filled with waves and marked by a line of thunderheads hanging high over the curve of the earth, he laughed. His world had changed, and he laughed.

It was a moment I wanted to capture and cling to, not just out of love for my nephew, but also out of love of discovery.

This perfect moment — it’s a singular thing, but we chase it. We crave it. We look for it every chance we get. And every once in a while, we’re fortunate enough to feel it again. That feeling is why we come to places like this, to the shores of North Carolina.

There’s a waking lullaby in the saline smell of the sea, in the cry of gulls and the beat of waves on the sand. Just a note or two of that song and we’re lifted out of the moment, transported to our own instances of discovery, left grasping at the memory with all our senses and capturing pieces of it.

The call of songbirds in the marsh grass, lightning in a summer sky, ships’ lights on the dark sea, golden evenings walking among the bent heads of sea oats — these can all take us there; so too can the taste of saltwater on our lips after we dive under that first wave, the heat of afternoon sun on our shoulders, the aroma of jasmine blossoms in the night.

Seeking these experiences is the first step and wherever you go on the coast of North Carolina, you’ll find them. You’ll find those things that allow you to see this world with fresh eyes and experience it anew.

5 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

Where to Go

The Outer Banks

This strip of narrow islands is a haven for anglers, sun-seekers, and history-lovers; they come for the ecological wonder of the maritime forest, the dune habitats and the shallow sounds that separate the Outer Banks from mainland North Carolina. Surfers, kiteboarders, and hang gliders ride the waves and wind around Nags Head and the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. On Roanoke Island, one of the first English settlements appeared then disappeared under baffling circumstances—a mystery that pervades today. Pirates and privateers plied these waters, and Blackbeard lost his head near Ocracoke. The vast Pamlico and Albemarle Sounds are home to colonial towns and fishing villages centuries old. Inland, the Great Dismal Swamp, an eerie, unforgettable place, and the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge are home to twisting marsh creeks and arrow-straight, hand-dug canals perfect for kayaking and spotting the rare red wolf. Generations of families have called the rivers and sounds of the Inner Banks home, farming the land and fishing the waters decade after decade. Along the Roanoke River are mill towns, fishing villages, and the colonial crossroads river town of Halifax, birthplace of the documents that inspired the Declaration of Independence.

Beaufort and the Crystal Coast

The architecture of New Bern and Beaufort, two of North Carolina’s most important colonial cities, are among the finest in the south, and their waterfronts are lined with stunning homes dating back to the state’s earliest days. Scuba divers love Morehead City, a convenient home base for dives in crystal-clear waters of “The Graveyard of the Atlantic” — where they can explore the hundreds of wrecks that dot the North Carolina coast. At the southern tip of the Cape Lookout National Seashore, the Cape Lookout Lighthouse stands sentinel, keeping safe the ships that pass. Along that seashore, the ghosts in the abandoned town of Portsmouth, wild horses known as Banker ponies, and hundreds of migratory birds are the only denizens. The dread pirates Blackbeard and Stede Bonnet, both regulars in these parts, rubbed elbows with high society here by night, and by day prowled the waters looking for prey. And all along the Crystal Coast, the fishing is fine as hundreds of species call the oceans, sounds, rivers, and creeks home.

Wilmington and Cape Fear

The rich, podark waters of the Cape Fear River flow past Wilmington, a port city known for antebellum homes and gardens, lively shops and restaurants, and the annual Azalea Festival, which greets spring in high Southern style. Beach towns like Topsail Island, Wrightsville Beach, and Kure and Carolina Beaches are some of the most beautiful stretches of sand in the nation. Between Wilmington and the South Carolina line, you’ll find the legendary Calabash seafood, dozens of outstanding golf courses, and the Brunswick Islands. The beaches of Oak Island, Holden Beach, and Ocean Isle are lovely, family-friendly spots, and Bald Head Island, home of Old Baldy, a lighthouse commissioned by Thomas Jefferson, offers solitude. Inland, the Waccamaw and Lumber rivers creep through beautiful blackwater swamps while the Cape Fear River leads upstream to Fayetteville, a military hub and destination for history, gardens, and various adrenaline-pumping sports, such as roller derby.

When to Go

Spring debuts in the southeast as early as late February, but reliably by mid-March. As it creeps up along the coast, temperatures are a pretty consistent 60-70 degrees by mid-April.

Summer means great weather and the high season. The beaches are packed, and you’ll find festivals and events throughout the region. The heat can be brutal, especially when combined with humidity, but the coast stays cooler than inland destinations, and ocean breezes offer relief. Temperatures range from the upper 70s to the mid 90s, with water temperatures in the mid 70s to low 80s, making for ideal beach days.

Autumn reaches the coast by early November, after hurricane season has passed. Autumn weather stays in the high-60s-low-70s, punctuated by days that push into the 80s, making it ideal for outdoor activities. Along the coast, the water stays swimmably warm past Halloween most years.

Winter is milder here than in many parts of the country. Daytime temperatures are usually in the 40s and 50s between late December and February, with frequent dips below freezing as the season wears on. The coast only gets one or two snow showers a year. Fall and early winter attract anglers, but many coastal businesses reduce their hours or even close entirely during winter.

During the shoulder seasons—late spring and early fall—rental rates drop, beaches are a little less crowded, and visitors can find bargain getaways (although the eastern Sandhills and areas around Pinehurst and Southern Pines can be quite crowded in the spring and fall, when the weather is most beautiful for golfing).

Before You Go

There are some seasonal events that are so large that entire cities or corners of the state can be heavily booked. April is the cruelest month for making short-notice travel arrangements, especially in Wilmington, where the Azalea Festival draws 100,000 visitors annually. Around the 4th of July, Oak Island, Bald Head Island, and Southport, the epicenter of a massive Independence Day celebration, are jam-packed with visitors enjoying fireworks and celebrations. During festival times like these, it can be difficult to find a motel room, campground, or spot for your RV anywhere near the event. October sees Morehead City packed to the gills for the North Carolina Seafood Festival. If you’ll be visiting the coast in winter, plan ahead for accommodations and dining, as businesses may be closed.

Coastal weather can change dramatically on a whim. Even on hot days, it can be breezy and cool on the water. Bring sun protection no matter when you visit. A water bottle is also handy. In spring and fall, it’s not a bad idea to keep some long sleeves, even if they’re light, on hand; and in winter you’ll want something to break the chill of the ocean breeze.

Cell phone signals are pretty consistent throughout North Carolina, but there are pockets on the coast where cell service and 3G, 4G, and LTE connectivity is spotty.

The Best of the North Carolina Coast

North Carolina’s coast spans some 300 miles from Virginia to South Carolina. There’s tons of beach, marsh, history, food, and fun to be had, but you can make it to all the highlights in a week.

Wilmington and Cape Fear

DAY 1

Start your journey in, Wilmington, the hub of the southeastern coast, easily accessible by road or air and lovely in its own right. Visit Wrightsville Beach for a swim and some beach time. Around lunch, pack up and drive 10 minutes to downtown Wilmington for a gyro at The Greeks, a stroll along the Riverwalk, and shopping at The Cotton Exchange. Stay downtown for dinner. Try PinPoint for a delicious twist on Southern cuisine, or The Fork n Cork for a spin on burgers you’ll remember, or dine on the river and savor the views. Not ready for bed? Pay a visit to one of the best breweries in town – Waterline, New Anthem and Flytrap are all great choices – or a cocktail at manna before retreating to your downtown bed and breakfast or the riverside Hotel Ballast.

DAY 2

Make an early tee time at Cape Fear National or one of the Big Cats courses and give Brunswick County your day, or head to the charming fishing village of Southport for a morning of shopping. At lunch, go for Southport’s Yacht Basin Provision Company, or head south to Calabash for a taste of the world-famous style of seafood at Waterfront Seafood Shack.

Backtrack to Southport (or head there for the first time) and take the ferry to Fort Fisher and walk off lunch at this historic Civil War fort. Next, visit the nearby North Carolina Aquarium for a look at what lies beneath the waves.

Dinner takes you back to Wrightsville Beach. Dine dockside at Dockside, overlooking Banks Channel at South Beach Grill, or have an omakase sushi feast at Bento Box.

Beaufort and the Crystal Coast

DAY 3

Drive north on U.S. 17 and U.S. 70 to Beaufort and Morehead City. Beaufort’s pirate history is on display via a walking tour of downtown, you can even pay your respects to Blackbeard at the North Carolina Maritime Museum, which contains artifacts recovered from his sunken pirate ship. Do lunch a little differently with a culinary bike tour from Hungry Town Tours before heading north on U.S. 70 to New Bern, the second oldest town in the state.

Spend the afternoon exploring art galleries and antique shops in downtown New Bern, and visit the beautiful gardens and home of Tryon Palace. On the way back to your bed and breakfast, drop in the Birthplace of Pepsi to learn about this iconic Southern drink. Dinner will be waterside at Persimmons Restaurant, where fresh seafood and sophisticated preparations are the norm.

DAY 4

Spend your morning at one of the coffee shops and bakeries in New Bern, then walk off your pastry on a tour of the elegant homes in the neighborhoods on the north side of town. Head inland to the famous Skylight Inn, a whole hog barbecue joint that serves barbecue sandwiches, plates and platters that exemplify the Eastern North Carolina style – smoky, vinegary, delicious.

For the afternoon, head to Kinston for a look at the remains of a Civil War Ironclad at the CSS Neuse Interpretive Center and the full-scale replica of this fearsome ship just a couple of blocks away. Enjoy a beer at Mother Earth Brewing’s tap room, then appetizers at The Boiler Room, and finally dinner at Chef & the Farmer. Spend the night in Kinston at Mother Earth Motor Lodge, a boutique motel that’s the exact right amount of retro chic.

The Outer Banks

DAY 5

Queen Street Deli has breakfast and eye-opening coffee to fuel you for the three hour push to Roanoke Island on the Outer Banks. Drive northeast to Jamesville and join U.S. 64, which will take you through the rural Inner Banks into Manteo. Along the way, soak up the scenery and stop to stretch your legs at Pettigrew State Park.

You’ll arrive on Roanoke Island around lunchtime. Grab a bite to eat at Poor Richard’s Sandwich Shop in Manteo and visit the Elizabethan Gardens and Fort Raleigh National Historic Site before you enjoy the longest-running outdoor drama in the U.S., The Lost Colony. Spend the night at the Tranquil House Inn and enjoy dinner in-house at 1587.

DAY 6

Pack up and head across the sound toward the beach. Grab breakfast at Sam & Omie’s, and Outer Banks classic, in Nags Head, then walk across the street to Jennette’s Pier for some beach time. Drive south on Hwy. 12 to the Bodie Island Lighthouse and climb to the top for a breathtaking view of the Outer Banks.

Take Hwy. 12 north toward Duck. Stop at the Wright Brothers National Memorial and see a replica of the brothers’ famed flying machine and the site where those historic first flights took place. Continue north to the village of Duck for lunch at AQUA Restaurant and Spa before checking in to luxe accommodations at the oceanfront Sanderling Resort. Spend the afternoon on the beach or relaxing at the spa, or take an excursion to Corolla, the next town up from Duck, to climb the Currituck Beach Lighthouse or take a wild horse tour on the beach to spot some of the famous Banker ponies.

Dinner and drinks tonight are just up the road at The Blue Point, a waterside restaurant that makes the most of local seafood and stunning sunset views

DAY 7

It’s about three hours from Duck to Ocracoke, your last stop before heading home, so strike out early and get breakfast at Duck Donuts, before following Hwy. 12 south through Cape Hatteras National Seashore. This stretch of beach is wild, and you’ll find just a handful of small towns. Close to the southern tip is the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse with its iconic black and white spiral paint job. Snap a photo or to climb to the top. A few miles to the southeast in Hatteras, board the ferry to Ocracoke Island.

On Ocracoke, arrange for a fishing charter or spend the day relaxing on the shell-strewn beach. Take your lunch at Eduardo’s Taco Stand, a taco food truck that’s a must-dine for locals and visitors. In the evening, head to the harbor for oysters on the half shell at Howard’s Pub & Raw Bar Restaurant. Spend the night here (taking time for stargazing, which is especially good outside of town) and begin to make your way home in the morning. A three-hour ferry ride puts you back on the Inner Banks near Beaufort, where you’re not far from the airports in Wilmington or Raleigh, as well as I-40 and I-95.

Outdoor Adventure

There’s no shortage of outdoor activities along North Carolina’s coast. Surfers come in droves; kayakers and standup paddleboarders rave about the marshes, sounds, rivers, and swamps; divers dig the wrecks and reefs offshore; and hikers and campers find a surprisingly diverse set of environs to explore. Most surprising are the hang gliders who come to Jockey’s Ridge on the Outer Banks. This massive sand dune is the perfect launch and landing point for hang gliders of all skill levels.

Kayaking

I’ve paddled all along the North Carolina coast, and although some prefer to take their kayaks oceanside, I’m happiest on the sounds, marshes, creeks, rivers, and swamps inland and on the back side of the barrier islands. No matter where you are along the coast, outfitters rent kayaks and standup paddleboards and quite often lead visitors on tours.

Along the Virginia border, the Great Dismal Swamp offers miles of paddling through what is a beautiful swamp, despite its name. Put ins are plentiful, but outfitters are a little ways away. It’s best to bring your own gear or make arrangements for day-long or longer rentals.

The same holds true for the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge, where you stand a good chance of seeing an alligator (be careful if you do and do not approach), black bear, or even the elusive and endangered red wolf. If you take a moonlight paddling tour, listen for the howls of red wolves.

Perhaps the greatest paddle on the coast is exploring the 56 miles of shoreline along the sound at Cape Lookout National Seashore, a long island inhabited only by wildlife, including birds, crabs, and wild horses. The ocean side of Cape Lookout is just ocean, but the sound side is rife with marshes and creeks. Paddle over from Harkers Island and spend a night or two to have enough time for discovering this place.

Near Wilmington, Town Creek winds for many miles from Brunswick County’s Green Swamp to the Cape Fear River, ranging from a tight, heavily wooded swamp creek to a wide coastal marsh. The brackish water, stained a rich coffee color by tannins from rotting vegetation, looks like something from Creature From the Black Lagoon. Twists and turns and plenty of wildlife, including circling osprey and the occasional snake, keep trips interesting. On Bald Head Island, the marsh creeks wind around for miles and the birdwatching—osprey, golden and bald eagles, painted bunting, egret and ibis—is top notch.

Surfing

From powerful storm swells to gentle, easy-to-learn-on beach break, the North Carolina coastline welcomes surfers of all skill levels from all over the world.

The Outer Banks is perpetually popular. The deserted Cape Hatteras National Seashore and the villages of Waves, Buxton, and Salvo are popular basecamps for surf safaris. Bring your boards and drop in along the National Seashore, or head north into the more populated Nags Head and Kill Devil Hills area for good waves closer to numerous surf shops, restaurants, and bars. You won’t just find surfers here, you’ll also see some daredevils kiteboarding. Strapped to a wakeboard and giant kite, they use the winds to propel them and the waves to launch them into the air all along the beaches and sound around Cape Hatteras.

For south-facing beaches known for catching swells, head to Emerald Isle on the Crystal Coast and