Moon Canadian Rockies: With Banff & Jasper National Parks

DISCOVER the Canadian Rockies

13 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR…

AVOID THE CROWDS

IN THE PARKS

Best of the Canadian Rockies

BANFF

BANFF AND YOHO

TOP 15 HIKES

JASPER

CALGARY

Rockies Road Trip

BANFF

KANANASKIS COUNTRY

WATERTON

WINTER ADVENTURES

KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK

YOHO NATIONAL PARK

BANFF NATIONAL PARK

FAMILY FUN

JASPER NATIONAL PARK

CANMORE

Camping Out

DAY 1

DAY 2

DAY 3

DAY 4

DAY 5

DAY 6

DAY 7

BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING

Snowcapped peaks, glaciers and ice fields, multihued lakes, rushing rivers, alpine meadows, and abundant wildlife make the Canadian Rockies a destination that is rivaled by few places in the world. Mother Nature dealt a winning hand to the Canadian Rockies, and governments had the foresight to protect most of the land for all time in a string of contiguous parks—each with its own character but combining to create one massive swath of wilderness.

Outstanding recreational opportunities make the Canadian Rockies unique. Hiking tops the list in popularity. Over 3,000 km (1,860 mi) of hiking trails lace the mountains, ranging from wheelchair-accessible boardwalks to backcountry treks. Biking, canoeing, kayaking, white-water rafting, golfing, and fishing also rank high in summertime popularity, while in winter visitors don skis, snowboards, and snowshoes. An abundance of wildlife can be found in the most unexpected places—an elk grazing on a golf course, a bear feasting on dandelions as you ride overhead on a gondola.

The Canadian Rockies’ parks are filled with tourism infrastructure. The opportunity to vacation in a wilderness setting without sacrificing the amenities of a resort destination is unequaled. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the town of Banff. Its main street is lined with boutiques, restaurants, and hotel rooms serving every budget. To the north, the town of Jasper offers a toned-down version of Banff with similar services. Outside of the parks, the city of Calgary is known around the world for the Calgary Stampede, while mountain towns such as Canmore, Bragg Creek, Radium Hot Springs, and Invermere thrive. Throughout the region, campgrounds cater to those who like to sleep under the stars—even if it is in an RV with all the trimmings.

While natural beauty is the main selling point, the growth of towns as tourist resorts makes the Canadian Rockies an ideal destination for all interests and budgets. One visitor may spend the day golfing one of the world’s most scenic courses, taking a gondola to a mountain peak, soaking in a European-style spa, and then dining in a fine French restaurant before retiring to a luxurious suite. Another visitor may strike out early on foot for a remote alpine lake, go white-water rafting in the afternoon, and then return to pitch a tent and grill dinner over a campfire. . . . Two very different experiences of a most singular destination.

13 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

Where to Go

Banff National Park

Banff is the crown jewel in Canada’s national park system and home to the world’s most photographed lakes. Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and the Icefields Parkway are just some of the park’s awe-inspiring highlights. Biking along the shoreline of Lake Minnewanka, exploring Larch Valley when fall colors are at their height, canoeing across Bow Lake, and hiking in to backcountry Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park may not be as well known, but each activity allows a glimpse of the park you won’t see as often on Instagram feeds.

Canmore

Canmore is the largest population center in the Canadian Rockies, but don’t let that put you off including it in your itinerary. It has transformed itself from a coal-mining town to a hotbed of recreational pursuits. The surrounding mountains are legendary among the climbing fraternity. Hiking trails lead to crystal-clear lakes and mountain peaks. But Canmore should also factor into your vacation plans for more practical purposes, such as the range of excellent restaurants and a choice of comparatively well-priced accommodations.

Kananaskis Country

Pronounced exactly as it reads, this recreational playground lies adjacent to Banff National Park and is handy for Calgarians who flock west to revel in a diverse range of activities or simply to do nothing at all. Along with scenery rivaling that of the national parks, it has top-notch facilities—1,300 km (800 mi) of hiking trails, 30 lakes stocked for fishing, accommodations ranging from tepees to an upscale hotel, and over 2,000 campsites in 31 campgrounds.

Kootenay National Park and Vicinity

Kootenay may not have the famous resort towns of Banff and Jasper, but what it has it does well: vast areas of wilderness, abundant wildlife, and a network of hiking trails that are suited to all levels of fitness. Highway 93 provides access to natural attractions like Marble Canyon and the Paint Pots, as well as phenomena such as Radium Hot Springs, which have been tweaked for human enjoyment. Visitors looking for creature comforts can travel beyond the park to the towns of Radium Hot Springs and Invermere.

Yoho National Park and Vicinity

Thousands of people pass through Yoho, one of the jewels of Canada’s national park system, daily, most traveling along the Trans-Canada Highway on their way to somewhere else. If only they knew what they were missing. Instead of rushing through, detour to Emerald Lake or up the Yoho Valley. Lake O’Hara is not accessible by public road, but this is a good thing. It makes one of the most scenic regions in all of the Canadian Rockies even more special.

Jasper National Park

Beyond a simple sign at Sunwapta Pass is a natural attraction that will leave you breathless—the Columbia Icefield, the largest and most accessible glacier field in the Canadian Rockies. Continuing north, the Icefields Parkway eventually reaches the town of Jasper, a smaller, quieter version of Banff. Take a walk along Maligne Canyon or a boat tour on Maligne Lake, hike the trails below Mount Edith Cavell, and head west to Mount Robson Provincial Park, and you’ll be following in the footsteps of millions before you.

Waterton Lakes National Park

The old cliché that good things come in small packages couldn’t be a truer description of Waterton Lakes National Park, separated only by an international border from Glacier National Park in Montana. The scenery is dramatic, ranging from prairie to glaciated peaks and from bird-rich wetlands to high alpine lakes, including beautiful Crypt Lake. If you’re looking for wildlife, Waterton Lakes will exceed your expectations. Mule deer and bighorn sheep are common within the townsite.

Calgary

Yahoo! Welcome to Cowtown, gateway to the Canadian Rockies, where in 1875 a North West Mounted Police detachment set up camp and today you’ll find a world center for the oil-and-gas industry, with ultramodern skyscrapers going up faster than any town planner ever imagined. While oil drives the economy, you’ll experience a different type of energy during the second week of July, when the Calgary Stampede transforms the city into party central, western-style.

When to Go

While the Canadian Rockies and Calgary can be visited year-round, there are two influxes of visitors—one in the warmer months and the other in winter.

Summer

Summer (late June-mid-Sept.) is definitely high season, especially the school holiday period of July through August and, in Calgary, the second week of July (Calgary Stampede). Simply said, the weather is unbeatable. The season is dominated by long, warm—and sometimes hot—days, everything is open, and there’s plenty to do and see. Crowded parks, higher prices, and difficulty securing reservations are the downside of summer travel.

Spring and Fall

Late spring and early fall are excellent times to visit the Canadian Rockies for two reasons: You’ll avoid the crowds, and you’ll save money.

Spring (mid-Apr.-late June) is notable for long days of sunlight (in late June it stays light until after 10pm) and a sense of optimism for the upcoming warm months.

Fall (mid-Sept.-Nov.) can be delightful, especially September, with lingering warm temperatures and a noticeable decrease in crowds immediately after the long weekend (at the beginning of the month). While fall colors in general lack the intensity of those in the eastern provinces and New England, larch turn a brilliant yellow throughout subalpine areas of Banff and Kananaskis in mid- to late September.

Winter

Local ski resorts begin opening for the winter (Dec.-mid-Apr.) in mid-November. The best powder snow conditions are January-February, although for enthusiasts looking for a combination of good snow and warmer weather, March is an excellent time of year to visit.

Before You Go

Passports and Visas

To enter Canada, a passport is required of citizens and permanent residents of the United States. For further information, see the website http://travel.state.gov. For current entry requirements to Canada, check the Citizenship and Immigration Canada website (www.cic.gc.ca).

All other foreign visitors must have a valid passport and may need a visa or visitors permit depending on their country of residence and the vagaries of international politics. At present, visas are not required for citizens of the United States, British Commonwealth, or Western Europe. The standard entry permit is for six months, and you may be asked to show onward tickets or proof of sufficient funds to last you through your intended stay.

Transportation

Visitors to the Canadian Rockies have the option of arriving by road, rail, or air. The main gateway city for flights from North America and Europe is Calgary, while Vancouver is also a popular starting point. From these two cities, as well as points across Canada, scheduled train and bus services pass through the region year-round.

Driving, whether it be your own vehicle or a rental car, is by far the best way to get around the Canadian Rockies, although most towns are served by bus.

Park Passes

Unless you’re passing directly through, passes are required for entry into all five national parks covered in this guide. Monies collected from these passes go directly to Parks Canada for park maintenance and improvements.

A National Parks Day Pass is adult $10, senior $8.40, children free, up to a maximum of $20 per vehicle. It is interchangeable among parks and is valid until 4pm the day following its purchase.

An annual Discovery Pass, good for entry into all of Canada’s national parks and national historic sites for one year from purchase, is adult $70, senior $60, to a maximum of $140 per vehicle. Discovery Passes can be purchased online at www.parksorders.ca [URL inactive], at park gates (at the entrances to Banff, Kootenay, Jasper, and Waterton Lakes), at the tollbooths at either end of the Icefields Parkway, at all park information centers, and at campground fee stations.

A Kananaskis Conservation Pass is required for entry into Kananaskis Country. These cost $15 per vehicle per day, or $90 for an annual pass. The easiest way to purchase a pass is online (https://conservationpass.alberta.ca), although they are also sold at visitors centers throughout Kananaskis Country.

In the Parks

Visitors Centers

Each national park has at least one visitors center, as do surrounding communities detailed in this book. There is also an information desk at the Arrivals level of Calgary International Airport. The main park centers are:

• Banff Visitor Centre (224 Banff Ave., 403/762-1550, 8am-8pm daily mid-May-Sept., 9am-5pm daily Oct.-mid-May) is in downtown Banff.

• Kootenay National Park Visitor Centre (7556 Main St. E., Radium Hot Springs, 250/347-9331 or 888/347-9331, 9am-5pm daily May-mid-Oct., until 7pm daily in summer) is perfectly located for northbound travelers entering Kootenay National Park.

• Yoho National Park Visitor Centre (Trans-Canada Hwy., Field, 250/343-6783, 9am-5pm daily May-mid-Oct., until 7pm daily in summer) is in the heart of Yoho National Park.

• Jasper Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr., 780/852-6176, 9am-7pm daily mid-May-early Oct., 9am-5pm daily early Oct.-mid-May) is in a historic building overlooking a park in downtown Jasper.

Where to Stay

The Canadian Rockies offer accommodations to suit all budgets, including campgrounds, hostels, motels, and high-end resorts. Regardless of your budget, it is very important to reserve well ahead for summer travel, especially in Banff, Jasper, and Waterton Lakes.

Getting Around

The easiest way to get around is in your own vehicle or a rental. Vehicles can be rented from all gateway airports, as well as in Banff, Jasper, and Canmore. Banff and Canmore have excellent public transit, with buses linking the two communities as well as reaching popular tourist areas such as the campgrounds on Tunnel Mountain and the gondola base on Sulphur Mountain. Day tours in Banff and Jasper hit all the highlights, and a summer bus service links Banff and Jasper.

Best of the Canadian Rockies

This itinerary combines the best of the best—the best-known natural highlights, the hikes you won’t want to miss, and the most scenic drives. Understand that you will not see all of the Canadian Rockies in one week, but you won’t miss out on anything either. You’ll head home feeling satisfied.

BANFF

Day 1

Fly into Calgary, pick up a rental car, and head for the mountains. After reaching Banff and settling into your accommodation, spend the afternoon exploring the town. Stop in at the information center and walk along the Bow River to the Fairmont Banff Springs.

Day 2

Head to Lake Minnewanka for the morning’s first tour boat departure with Banff Lake Cruise, which will take you to the far reaches of the lake, passing interesting features like Devil’s Gap. After your cruise is complete, drive the short distance to Two Jack Lake. For lunch, try to get the prime picnic location on a forested outcrop jutting into the lake.

Take the Trans-Canada Highway to Castle Junction and loop back down the Bow Valley Parkway to enjoy the short hike up