Moon Florence & Beyond

Day Trips, Local Spots, Strategies to Avoid Crowds

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By Alexei J. Cohen

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World-famous galleries, medieval towers, bustling sidewalk cafés, and a culture steeped in artistic innovation: savor the best of Firenze at your own speed with Moon Florence & Beyond.
  • Explore In and Around the City: Get to know Florence’s most interesting neighborhoods like the historic center, Santa Croce, San Marco, and Santa Maria Novella, and nearby areas including Lucca, San Gimignano, Siena, Chianti, and more
  • Go at Your Own Pace: Choose from multiple itinerary options designed for foodies, history buffs, art lovers, and more
  • See the Sights: Climb to the top of the gravity-defying Duomo, gaze at Michelango’s David at the Accademia, see world-famous works at the Uffizi Gallery, or hike to the Basilica San Miniato al Monte for undisturbed views of the city skyline
  • Get Outside the City: Escape the crowds and explore rolling Tuscan hill towns, the charming medieval city of Lucca, and the vineyards of Chianti
  • Savor the Flavors: Linger over an aperitivo at sunset, sample mouthwatering gelato, explore the city’s burgeoning modern restaurant scene, or enjoy a traditional Florentine meal at an old-school trattoria
  • Experience the Nightlife: From a classic Negroni at an al fresco café to a swanky champagne bar or a neighborhood enoteca serving local Brunellos, find the best of Florence’s many watering holes
  • Get to Know the Real Florence: Follow local suggestions from Italian transplant Alexei Cohen
  • Full-Color Photos and Detailed Maps
  • Handy Tools: Background information on Florentine history and culture, plus tips on sustainable travel, what to pack, where to stay, and how to get around
Day trip itineraries, favorite local spots, and strategies to skip the crowds: Take your time with Moon Florence & Beyond.

Exploring more of Italy? Check out Moon Venice & Beyond or Moon Milan & Beyond: With the Italian Lakes.

Excerpt

DISCOVER FLORENCE & BEYOND

MY FAVORITE EXPERIENCES

EXPLORE FLORENCE & BEYOND

BEST OF FLORENCE

LUGGAGE STORAGE

PISTOIA-LUCCA-PISA

CHIANTI-SAN GIMIGNANO-SIENA

TRAVEL LIKE A LOCAL

WHERE TO GO FROM FLORENCE

SIENA AND TUSCAN HILL TOWNS

WINE TASTING IN TUSCANY

BEFORE YOU GO

WHEN TO GO

GETTING THERE

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

BUDGETING

GETTING AROUND

WHAT TO PACK

DAILY REMINDERS

SIGHTSEEING PASSES

KEY RESERVATIONS

Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance, inspires with its orderly streets lined with yellow façades, its famous Renaissance art, and its romantic bridge crossing the Arno river. Justly famous for its glorious past, its invigorating present is just as enticing. As you explore, let curiosity be your guide. Pedal a bike along the Arno, sip espresso at the counter of a coffee bar, and pause with the locals for a Negroni during aperitivo hour. Immerse yourself in the modern city, and its liveliness, diversity, and traditions may surprise you.

Florence gets most of the attention, but there’s more to Tuscany than one stunning city, from Siena’s shell-shaped square to Lucca’s sturdy ramparts, to the soft, gentle hills that Romantic poets described as the entrance to heaven. Grapevines and olive trees line winding roads, where every town, it seems, is worthy of a detour. There are ancient pilgrim paths to tread and old roads that beckon to be explored on a bicycle or Vespa. And when it comes to food, Tuscany can’t be beat. Portions are generous, flavors are robust, and there’s certainly no shortage of red wine to choose from.

More than just a gorgeous landscape, Tuscany is the birthplace of thousands of ideas that changed art and architecture forever. This is where Brunelleschi solved the 15th century’s greatest engineering puzzle; where da Vinci contemplated flight; where Michelangelo worked magic with marble; and where Galileo contemplated the heavens. Once you’ve experienced Florence and Tuscany for yourself, you, too, may never see the world the same way again.

MY FAVORITE EXPERIENCES

1 Climbing to the top of the Duomo for views across Florence.

2 Savoring Tuscan flavors, from pappa al Pomodoro to surprising tripe sandwiches.

3 Enjoying Negroni cocktails during aperitivo hour.

4 Gazing at works by Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Botticelli inside the Uffizi.

5 Waking up in a countryside agriturismo.

6 Hiking ancient pilgrim paths through pristine Tuscan countryside.

7 Getting up close and personal with Michelangelo’s David, the world’s most famous statue, at the Accademia in Florence.

8 Exploring Tuscany on two wheels, bicycle or Vespa.

9 Tasting local wines in Chianti and the hill towns of Tuscany.

EXPLORE FLORENCE & BEYOND

Three days is enough time to get a good introduction to Florence. From there, there’s no shortage of single and multi-day trips outside the city. Key considerations (in addition to your interests) are time and mode of transportation. Pistoia, Lucca, and Pisa can all be quickly reached by train and make good individual day destinations, or can be combined into longer excursions. Siena is also reachable by rail and a feasible day trip. Volterra, San Gimignano, Chianti, and the Hill Towns south of Siena are not accessible by train, so driving is the most convenient option for exploring these parts of Tuscany.

view of Florence

BEST OF FLORENCE

Three days will allow you to visit a number of Florence’s major sights, get a taste of Tuscan cuisine, and take a bus out to Fiesole for sunset views of the city. Visit www.firenzeturismo.it to make reservations for the Accademia and Uffizi before arriving to the city. Reserving a table at Fiesole’s La Reggia degli Etruschi at the end of this itinerary is also recommended.

DAY 1

Explore Florence’s historic center on your first full day. (For a more detailed itinerary, see Florence on Day 1).

 See the David, climb to the top of the Duomo, and enjoy art at Museo Nazionale del Bargello, a tranquil alternative to the Uffizi.

 End your day sampling Tuscan cuisine at one of the osteria (restaurants) lining Borgo la Croce.

DAY 2

Spend day two exploring the Oltrarno neighborhood south of Florence’s historic center. (For a more detailed itinerary, see Florence on Day 2).

 Hike to Basilica San Miniato al Monte for great views of Florence, visit local craft workshops below, and taste a tripe sandwich for lunch.

 Check out Adam and Eve inside the Brancacci Chapel.

 Get aperitivo started with a Negroni cocktail from one of the bars in Piazza Santo Spirito.

LUGGAGE STORAGE

If you’re setting off on multiday trips from Florence, you may want to leave unneeded luggage in storage at the train station. Luggage Storage (Via dell’Albero 22, www.stowyourbags.com) is a private company that charges €14 a day for a standard size locker.

DAY 3

Experience Florence like a local or continue sightseeing, with a side trip out to Fiesole for views over Florence.

 Get to the Uffizi early, before it gets crowded, and cross the Ponte Vecchio for fun (or to browse jewelry shops with a loved one).

Ponte Vecchio, Florence

 Walk up to Museo San Marco and see where monks lived, including one who was burned at the stake in Piazza della Signoria.

 In the afternoon, ride bus 7 (20 minutes) up to Fiesole and take a look at the town’s Roman amphitheater. Enjoy the view outside Convento di San Francisco, the convent, and get a table on the terrace at Reggia degli Etruschi for dinner with a view.

PISTOIA-LUCCA-PISA

There’s a lot more to Tuscany than Florence, and these three cities provide plenty of cultural and artistic perspective on the region. They also give cyclists a chance to get beyond city limits and explore aqueducts, riversides, and natural parks. Reserve your ticket for the Leaning Tower of Pisa 1-20 days in advance at www.opapisa.it.

All three of these cities are accessed by rail, making this itinerary possible without a car. Pack light, since you won’t have a place to stow items when you’re exploring Pisa en route to Lucca. (You can leave extra luggage in storage at the train station in Florence.)

DAY 1: FLORENCE TO PISTOIA AND LUCCA

 From Florence, catch an early train (30-50 minutes) to Pistoia. Trains depart Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station hourly. No reservations are necessary; just get a ticket and go.

medieval bell tower and gothic Saint John Baptistry in Pistoia

 The train will drop you off just a 15-minute walk from the historic center. Climb the Campanile bell tower, then enjoy a traditional lunch at Locanda del Capitano del Popolo.

 Head back to the station and buy a ticket to Lucca (45-60 minutes). Settle into your hotel, then rent a bike and ride around the city’s ramparts, or ride the 4-kilometer (one-way) Parco del Nottolini trail next to the old aqueduct.

 Have dinner at Gigi Trattoria in Lucca before turning in for the night.

Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, Lucca

DAY 2: LUCCA TO PISA

 In the morning, take a leisurely stroll down the elegant streets of Lucca. Discover Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, the cutest square in Tuscany.

aerial view of the Cathedral of Pisa in Italy

 Have lunch at Lucca’s Trattoria Canuleia in a garden away from the tourist traps.

 Get on the next train to Pisa (30 minutes), and don’t be late for your appointment to climb the famous Leaning Tower. You get 30 minutes at the top.

 At dusk, walk the city’s narrow ramparts, Mura di Pisa, for a view of the city from above.

 Follow the sound of students gathering socially in the squares around Borgo Stretto and get a taste of Pisa’s nightlife yourself. Drinking in the streets is a summertime ritual for many locals.

DAY 3: PISA BACK TO FLORENCE

 Rent a bike and cycle around the city’s walls.

 Circle back for another look at the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles) and have lunch at Osteria Rossini in a quieter square away from the masses. Board the next train back to Florence (50-70 minutes).

CHIANTI-SAN GIMIGNANO-SIENA

Tuscany owes much of its legendary status to these three destinations. This rural itinerary (best enjoyed by car) gets better around every curve. There’s endless wine, magnificent vineyards surrounded by idyllic landscapes, and gastronomic treats waiting in each romantic town along the way. Make advance reservations for Castello di Verrazzano winery.

San Gimignano skyline

DAY 1: FLORENCE TO CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI AND RADDA IN CHIANTI

 Head out early from Florence on the SR222 south to Chianti.

 Stop at Castello di Verrazzano (reservations required), an historic winery, then continue driving to Castellina.

 After arriving in Castellina, park your car, then order pici pasta at an osteria in town, like romantic Ristorante Sotto le Volte, located under medieval vaulted passageways.

TRAVEL LIKE A LOCAL

If you want to experience Florence and the surrounding countryside like a local, you have to think less about monuments and museums and more about simple pleasures like lunch, conversation, and aperitivo. Traveling like them also means respecting culture. You may have to kiss someone on the cheek, resist leaving a tip (anything more than €5 labels you as a tourist), and get up the nerve to taste a tripe sandwich, but trying new things is fun and why you came to Florence in the first place.

Take a pre-dinner stroll. Much of Florence’s center is pedestrianized, and the pre-dinner stroll is a ritual that takes place along Borgo la Croce, San Frediano, and the Arno. When locals tire they linger on benches or church steps, where conversations go on until the late hours.

Ride a bike. Florentines ride bicycles everywhere, and cycling is a green way to get around the city and surrounding countryside. Renting or using the city’s bikeshare program is easy and once you get a handle of the local disdain of breaks you’ll be ready to explore destinations like Fiesole, where mountain bike enthusiasts converge on weekends.

Take a long lunch. Sitting down for lunch is a Tuscan tradition. Adapt to the pace, unless it’s extremely slow, in which case, feel free to get as angry as the locals do.

Skip the S&P. The Italian philosophy is that food is served the way it’s meant to be eaten, so you won’t find salt, pepper, olive oil, or Parmesan on tables.

Order espresso at the counter. It’s not only cheaper than sitting at a table; it’s the local way.

Use local water fountains. Water here is free, and refilling containers is a green way to travel.

Avoid spending money in tourist areas. Turn a corner and find better deals on everything, from snacks and drinks to souvenirs.

Take a break. Nothing important happens on weekdays between 2pm and 4pm, when many stores close and most Tuscans remain indoors. It’s also when locals take their summertime naps and awake refreshed, ready to start the day all over again.

 Visit Rocca, the town’s fortress, before departing for Radda, 13 kilometers (8mi) east along the SR429 regional road.

 After arriving in Radda, rent a Vespa from Tuscany Scooter Rental and explore the Tuscan countryside.

 Spend the night at Podere Terreno agriturismo and wake up with a wonderful view.

DAY 2: RADDA TO SAN GIMIGNANO AND SIENA

 Have breakfast at the agriturismo, then hit the road towards San Gimignago, 45 kilometers (28mi) west back along the SR429 and onto the SP51. The drive takes about an hour.

 Park in one of the town’s lots (€2/hour) and climb Casa Campatelli, one of the last remaining tower houses in San Gimignano.

WHERE TO GO FROM FLORENCE

Destination Why Go How To Get There from Florence How Long to Stay
Fiesole hikes; sunset views over Florence Bus (20 minutes); walking (60-90 minutes) half a day
Pistoia mini version of Florence (without the crowds) halfway between Florence and Lucca Train (30-50 minutes) half a day
Lucca Renaissance ramparts and city cycling Train (1.5-2 hours) 1-2 days
Pisa Leaning Tower; beach access Train (1 hour) 1 day
San Gimignano tower houses; wine; atmosphere Car (1 hour) 1-2 days
Volterra shopping; Etruscan artifacts; hill-town atmosphere Car (1.5 hours) 1-2 days
Chianti wine-tasting Car (45 minutes to Greve, the region’s gateway) 1-3 days
Siena stunning town with famous square; gateway to Tuscan Hill Towns Train (1.5 hours) 2 days
Tuscan Hill Towns wineries; monasteries; tranquility Car (2 hours to Montalcino) 1-3 days

 Circle the city’s ring walls on foot, and visit Palagetto winery, a 10-minute walk from town.

 Set off for Siena, 42 kilometers (26mi) south along the Firenze-Siena highway, and park for the night.

 Visit the Duomo, which is second to none in terms of craftsmanship and beauty, then climb Torre del Mangia for sunset views.

 Spend the evening at a small enoteca making friends and falling in love with Tuscan food.

DAY 3: SIENA TO PANZANO, AND BACK TO FLORENCE

 Sample local pastries at Pasticceria Bini outside the center of town, then wander Sienna’s Renaissance streets around Piazza del Campo, and enjoy some souvenir shopping on Via di Città.

 Return towards Florence by driving north on the SR222 road. After about an hour, make a rest stop in Panzano for the local steak specialty at Officina della Bistecca.

 Make it back to Florence in time for aperitivo.

SIENA AND TUSCAN HILL TOWNS

Siena is a cultural dynamo filled with Renaissance monuments that are second to none. It’s also an ideal starting point for exploring the stunning hill towns and magnificent wineries south of the city. For this itinerary, take a train to Siena, then rent a car there to explore the hill towns to the south.

DAY 1: FLORENCE TO SIENA

 Take the train from Florence to Siena (90 minutes), and spend a day (or two, if you have the time) exploring the city. For the best ways to spend your time in Siena.

DAYS 2-3: SIENA TO MONTALCINO AND PIENZA; PIENZA TO MONTEPULCIANO

 Rent a car in Siena’s train station at Siena Rent, then begin your drive south to the hill towns. For a detailed two-day itinerary of this region. Highlights include tastings at local wineries and wine cellars, sunset views across Tuscany, and a half-day cycling tour with panoramic views.

Montepulciano at sunset

TOP EXPERIENCE

WINE TASTING IN TUSCANY

You can learn a lot about wine in Florence, but there’s something raw and earthy about drinking it at the source. There are two ways to do this: Join a wine tour and follow a preordained path or set out on your own, which is the adventurous option. The best areas to explore are Chianti and the Tuscan Hill Towns of Montalcino, Pienza, and Montepulciano.

Chianti’s famous Sangiovese grapes

TASTING AT WINERIES

Almost as soon as you leave the Florence city limits, you’ll see signs pointing to wineries. Dozens are clustered around the SR222 in Chianti, between Florence and Siena, and it’s impossible not to stumble on one. South of Siena, dozens of vineyards are located within sight of Montalcino, Pienza, and Montepulciano. A few can be reached on foot from nearby towns and many more are within a short drive. The majority of Tuscan wineries are equipped with tasting rooms where you can sample and purchase wine. Many also offer organized tours, and some provide dining and accommodation facilities.

Wineries are often family owned, without dedicated hospitality staff, so it’s useful to call ahead and reserve tours rather than just showing up. Simple tastings are often free, while more elaborate cellar visits have a fee of around €10-25, depending on length and the quality and number of wines to be sampled.

After visiting a winery it’s always tempting to buy. If you decide to ship a case or two home, make sure all transport and duty fees are included up front or you could face some expensive surprises later.

If you’re driving, remember that the legal blood alcohol limit in Italy is 0.5, which is lower than in the US and UK (both 0.8). Most wineries are just a short taxi ride—or, in some cases, a short walk—from the nearest town.

TASTING AT WINE BARS AND CELLARS

Another way to taste local wines is to swing by an enoteca (wine bar) in any of the towns in Chianti or those south of Siena. The good thing about wine bars is, unlike restaurants that close after lunch, they remain open and you can pop in whenever you like for a glass of wine, taglieri (cheese and cold cut platter), and often more substantial first course dishes. Most are causal, and you’ll be given a warm welcome whether or not you can tell a Chianti from a Chianti Classico.

The Tuscan Hill Town of Montepulciano has an especially high concentration of cantinas (wine cellars), where wine from local vineyards is served. You can visit a number of these in town. Tastings are inexpensive, and there’s often a shop onsite where bottles can be purchased.

BEFORE YOU GO

WHEN TO GO

Florence is one of the most visited cities in the world. Deciding when to go will have a significant impact on your experience.

SUMMER

Summer sees a dramatic increase in arrivals, with July and August the apex of the tourist season. Airlines and hotels take advantage of demand to raise their rates, and temperatures rise to sweltering. Avoid these months if you can. If you can’t, book ahead and purchase sightseeing passes like the Firenzecard

Genre:

On Sale
Jun 25, 2019
Page Count
336 pages
Publisher
Moon Travel
ISBN-13
9781640490673

Alexei J. Cohen

About the Author

Alexei J. Cohen was born in New York City and learned the joy of travel at an early age. He got his first passport at 6 months old and spent childhood holidays exploring rural France. He fell in love with Italy by chance, and married an Italian after graduating from Carnegie Mellon University. Today he lives on the outskirts of Rome with his wife and two children, where he writes about Italy and shares his passion with travelers.

You can follow him on Twitter (@alexeicohen), or meet him in person at monthly gatherings in Rome to talk about all things Italy and swap experiences with fellow Italophiles.

Learn more about this author