Moon Rome Walks

ROME WALKS

Step off the plane and head straight for the newest, hippest coffee joint in town. Discover where to get the best seafood in the city or where to find locally brewed beer on tap. In Moon Rome Walks, our local authors let you in on all the hotspots and best kept secrets. This way, you can skip the busy shopping streets and stroll through the city at your own pace, taking in a local attraction on your way to the latest and greatest concept stores. Savor every second and make your city trip a truly feel-good experience.

ROME-BOUND!

You’re about to discover Rome. According to legend, Rome was built in 753 B.C., and almost 2,800 year later, the city has developed a modern vibe. Ancient theaters found new life as restaurants, and workers’ districts are now hip yuppie neighborhoods. The Colosseum, the Foro Romano, the Vatican, and the Spanish Steps—these are just a few of the monuments that support Rome’s status as “the Eternal City.” Every street corner provides an opportunity to explore something from a different era, and in between all that history is the here and now: strong Italian coffee, ice cream in all imaginable flavors, wine from Rome’s region of Lazio, pasta a-la-Romana, and hidden independent businesses. Follow us and we’ll unveil all the secrets of the Eternal City!

ABOUT THIS BOOK

In this book, local authors share with you the genuine highlights of their city. Discover the city by foot and at your own pace, so you can relax and experience the local lifestyle without having to do a lot of preparation beforehand. That means more time for you—what we call “time to momo.” Our walks take you past our favorite restaurants, cafés, museums, galleries, shops, and other notable attractions—places we ourselves like to go.

None of the places mentioned here have paid to appear in either the text or the photos, and all text has been written by an independent editorial staff. This is true for the places in this book as well as for the information in the time to momo app and all the latest tips, themed routes, neighborhood information, blogs, and the selection of the best hotels on www.timetomomo.com.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

The six walks in this book allow you to discover the best neighborhoods in the city by foot and at your own pace. The walks will take you past museums and notable attractions, but, more importantly, they’ll show you where to go for good food and drinks, shopping, entertainment, and an overall fun time. Check out the map at the front of this book to see which areas of the city the walks will take you through.

Each route is clearly indicated on a detailed map at the beginning of the relevant chapter. The map also specifies where each listing is located. The color of the number tells you what type of venue it is (see the key at the bottom of this page). A description of each place is given later in the chapter.

Without taking into consideration extended stops at various locations, each walk will take a maximum of three hours. The approximate distance is indicated at the top of the page, before the directions.

PRICE INDICATION

We give an idea of how much you can expect to spend at each location, along with its address and contact details. Unless otherwise stated, the amount given in restaurant listings is the average price of a main course. For sights and attractions, we indicate the cost of a regular full-price ticket.

WHEN IN ROME

Your idea of efficiency will probably be challenged when visiting Rome. So, relax and don’t worry too much when you can’t find an up-to-date timetable, if a restaurant opens later than their sign says, or when a museum closes sooner than listed.

Eating is a vital part of Italian life. Romans tend to eat late. Lunch is usually from 1pm to 3pm, and only the most touristy restaurants open their doors before 8pm for dinner. Avoid restaurants where waiters stand outside praising the menu. Instead, visit a Roman trattoria, osteria, or family restaurant with no pretense. Romans are not good with change, but slowly and steadily more trendy restaurants and bars are opening their doors. At these trendy places, it’s more about seeing and being seen than the quality of the food. For truly good food, choose basic places with fluorescent lights and paper table covers. An enoteca is a wine bar where you can enjoy small bites and light fair, while in a ristorante you’ll sit down to an elaborate meal—often chic and with service some other places lack. On the bill you’ll generally see a cover charge of two to three euros per person, listed as coperto or pane. If you see this charge listed, don’t tip unless the service was exceptionally good. If there is no cover charge on the bill, a 10% tip is customary.

The Roman kitchen is famous for its simple dishes, such as pasta alla gricia (with pork jowl) or cacio e pepe (with cheese and black pepper), fried specialties like stuffed zucchini flowers or baccalà (salted cod), and hearty meats like lamb shank or oxtail. Italians like to drink wine with their meals and usually start with an aperitivo with a few small bites. After a hearty meal, they order a digestif: a distilled drink like grappa or limoncello that “massages” the insides.

Romans don’t have elaborate breakfasts. They tend to have a cappuccino and a cornetto (croissant) at their neighborhood bar. Pay at the checkout first, then take your receipt to the bar to collect your order. Within two minutes you’re out. You can be served at a table, but you will be charged slightly more.

GOOD TO KNOW

Most shops close for lunch—roughly between 1:30pm and 3pm—and they remain closed all day Sunday and Monday mornings. Many shops and restaurants close for the entire month of August. This is less common in the city center, but don’t be surprised at how quiet it can be in other neighborhoods. Museums often close their cash registers an hour before the official closing time. Are you under 18 or a student under 26? Take your passport or student card with you when you visit a museum. You’ll get a discount but only upon identification.

If you want to visit churches, keep a modest dress code in mind. Bring a light scarf to cover your shoulders on warm summer days, and make sure that bare legs are covered. Skirts or shorts that fall below the knees are often okay.

MUSEUM REVOLUTION

Italian museums instated a new policy in July 2014. Museum tickets used to be free for seniors 65 and older, but now they have to pay full price. Only kids 18 and younger and (in some cases) teachers have free entrance. Students under 26 get a discount.

As compensation, “museum nights” are organized twice a year, which feature a €1 entrance fee. Major attractions like the Colosseum remain open until 10pm every Friday night. And all museums are free the first Sunday of every month.

This policy change was decided by Minister Dario Franceschini of the “Ministero dei Beni e delle Attività Culturali e del Turismo” (Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism) to honor the value of Italian heritage. Before this change, more than one in three visitors had free admission to museums, which made the Minister feel like he was “sitting on a gold mine.”

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

August is the main holiday month in Italy, so keep in mind that many shops and restaurants in Rome are closed for vacation (chiuso per ferie). Italy also recognizes the following public holidays:

January 1 > New Year’s Day

January 6 > Epiphany (La Befana)

April 25 > Liberation Day

May 1 > Labor Day

June 2 > Republic Day

August 15 > Assumption of Mary (Ferragosto)

November 1 > All Saints’ Day

December 8 > Immaculate Conception

December 25 > Christmas Day

December 26 > St. Stephen’s Day (Santo Stefano)

HAVE ANY TIPS?

Shops and restaurants in Rome come and go fairly regularly. We do our best to keep the walks and contact details as up to date as possible, and this is reflected in our digital products. We also do our best to update the print edition as often as we can. However, if, despite our best efforts, there is a place that you can’t find or if you have any other comments or tips about this book, please let us know. Email info@momedia.nl, or leave a message on www.timetomomo.com.

TRANSPORTATION

A taxi from Leonardo da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport to the center of town is €48, and €30 from Ciampino Airport. Note: This rate is only available within the historic center. Many unofficial taxi drivers try to scam tourists at both airports, so only get into a white cab with a taxi meter. You can also take a shuttle bus to central Termini station (www.sitbusshuttle.it, www.terravision.eu). The train is also an option: One way on the Leonardo Express train from Fiumicino to Termini costs €14, and a train to Trastevere station is €8.

Rome has three subway lines. A and B pass by all the major sights and cross each other at Termini station. Line C is still partly under construction, so expect regular changes to the schedule. Normally the subway runs from 5:30am until 11:30pm (Fri & Sat until 1:30am). The bus takes you to all the places the subway doesn’t, but they can be jam-packed and a favorite spot for pickpockets. With the subway and buses #40 and #64, you can cover most of the center. Tickets for the subway, bus, tram, and train are €1.50 and valid for 100 minutes. Stamp your ticket when you board. Note: You can use one ticket to transfer subway lines, but you have to stay within the entry gates. Tickets are sold at tobacco shops and subway stations. You can choose from 1-day tickets (€7), 2-day tickets (€12.50), 3-day tickets (€18), and 1-week tickets (€24). Night buses run between midnight and 5am. More info is available at: www.atac.roma.it.

A Roma Pass is valid for 3 days. You can use it for public transport and it grants free access to two museums. The pass costs €36 and is sold at various tourist information booths, all participating museums, and a few subway stations. More info is available at: www.romapass.it.

Taxis are not allowed to stop on the street and can only pick up customers at taxi stops. Make sure your driver resets the meter. Luggage comes with a surcharge. Rides after 10 pm, on Sundays, and on national holidays start from €5. You do not have to tip. You can also order a taxi by calling (0039) 06 3570.

While Rome’s center is small enough to explore on foot, the adventurous may be interested in renting a motor scooter (about €40/day). You need a driver’s license and must wear a helmet. Rental scooters are available at Treno & Scooter on Piazza del Cinquecento, in front of Termini station (www.trenoescooter.com). Be careful—traffic is chaotic.

BIKING

Don’t be surprised if you find a bike path that stops suddenly: this is an example of vain attempts to make the city more bike-friendly. The rows of holes, which until recently held poles with rental bikes, are silent witness to this, too.

Yet, in recent years more cyclists have started to take to the city streets. Rome is built on several hills, so not every neighborhood is easily accessible by bici. A number of highlights in the historic center, however, are on flat terrain, including the neighborhoods around the Vatican, Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Piazza del Popolo, Trevi Fountain, Campo de’ Fiori, and the ghetto.

There are relatively few bike paths in Rome, especially in the center. Visit www.piste-ciclabili.com to study an overview of all the bike lanes (green lines). Want to go for a proper bike ride in the heart of the city without constantly having to navigate the busy traffic? Go down to the riverside and ride the lungotevere—a long path running along the riverbank. Be vigilant elsewhere in the city. The average Roman driver is not very attentive of people on bikes. And if your bell doesn’t work, shout “Attenzione!” (“Watch out!”). There are two golden rules in Roman traffic: Wear a helmet, and don’t be in a hurry.

Topbike Rental & Tours in Via Labicana 49 is an organization of enthusiastic people who love to show off Rome and its rich history by bike. Have a look on their website or call for more information (www.topbikerental.com, t 064882893). Alternative options include Bici & Baci (www.bicibaci.com) and Roma Rent Bike (www.romarentbike.com).

Bici Roma (www.biciroma.it) is one of the organizations that wants to push the political agenda for more new bike lanes. A large bike tour is held annually throughout the city in collaboration with the Dutch embassy in Rome.

Italy is one of the top five countries in the world with the most cars. Wouldn’t it be wonderful to avoid the headache of navigating by car and instead chain your bike to a drainpipe in front of the Pantheon?

TOP 10: SUNDAY

1   Go to L’Arcangelo for a creative dinner in the chic Prati neighborhood. > click here

2   Lunch with the locals in Hostaria Romana. > click here

3   There are endless choices at Roscioli. > click here

4   L’Asino d’Oro’s lunch menu is excellent. > click here

5   Always a cozy feel in the long and narrow Cul de Sac. > click here

6   Every day features a different dish at Felice a Testaccio. > click here

7   Vegetarian food in the modern Il Margutta Ristor Arte. > click here

8   Grappolo d’Oro Zampanò is an innovative trattoria. > click here

9   For kosher food go to Ba’ghetto. > click here

10 Taverna Pretoriana is always buzzing. > click here

TOP 10: FILM LOCATIONS

1   Cinecittà is a world-famous film set. > click here

2   Anita Ekberg bathes in Fontana di Trevi in La Dolce Vita. > click here

3   Legendary La Bocca della Verità in Roman Holiday. > click here

4   In Quo Vadis, Petrus sees Jesus on Via Appia Antica. > click here

5   Tom Hanks looks for Angels & Demons on Piazza del Popolo. > click here

6   Statues from the Vatican in The Godfather Part III. > click here

7   The Talented Mr. Ripley goes to Piazza di Spagna. > click here

8   La Grande Bellezza opens at La Fontana dell’Acqua Paola. > Via Garibaldi

9   Trastevere is the backdrop of To Rome With Love. > click here

10 Porta Portese plays a part in Bicycle Thieves. > click here

TOP 10: SUNDAYS

1   See the pope after Sunday mass at Piazza San Pietro. > click here

2   Palatino and Foro Romano form the heart of old Rome. > click here

3   Relive ancient times with a walk through Ostia Antica. > click here

4   View the impressive Etruscan art collection at Villa Giulia. > click here

5   Brunch is served after you see the exhibition in the Chiostro del Bramante. > click here